quarta-feira, junho 27, 2007

check out our lovely pics

http://picasaweb.google.com/adadea/Trip07Selection

big up to my hubby for the shooting and the permission to post

sábado, junho 09, 2007

in the company of a brasilian, his german girl, and a frenchie from toulouse, we took a 4x4 through the high volcanic desert that links chile and bolivia, passing through the world´s largest salt lake, sleeping in a hotel made of salt brick, and finally ending up at uyuni, bolivia, whose sole tourist attraction is a train graveyard.

we bussed our asses out of there fast and got to la paz, which makes rocinha look puny but caters well to tourists. we saw evo morales´ palace and the coca museum and an adjacent lowlit restaurant filled with intricate imitation-antique woodcarvings of demonic spaniards and demonic angels and the recurring image of a penis with wings. the llama we ate was delicious.

this is the last evening of a 4 day tour of the bolivian and peruvian sides of lake titicaca, the islands of which hold various indigenous peoples, all of which buy mainland tourist trinkets to sell at higher prices as their own arduous craft. on the upside, i got blessed by a shaman, and this morning we visited floating reed islands that shake and shiver and hold entire families of indians.

tonight we take the bus to cusco and will be there for a week. i will upload a selection from our 4 cds of pictures when we get back to rio.

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com um brasileiro, a namorada alemã e um francês de toulouse, atravessamos o altiplano entre chile e bolivia de 4x4. vimos o maior salar do mundo, dormimos num hotel feito de sal e terminamos em uyuni, bolivia, aonde o maior atracão turística e um cemitério de trens.

saímos de la rapidinho e chegamos em la paz, que envergonha a rocinha mas tem vários pontos turísticos. vimos o palácio do evo morales, o museu de coca e comemos no restaurante do lado, que era escuro e cheio de espanhóis e anjos demonicos esculpidos em madeira, e a imagem persistente de um penis com asas. a lhama que comemos foi delicioso.

esta e a ultima tarde de um tour de 4 dias dos lados boliviano e peruano do lago titicaca, as ilhas do qual tem vários povos indiginas, todos quem compram souvenirs das cidades grandes e revendem como seu próprio artesanato arduo. entretanto, recebi bencao de um shaman, e esta manha visitamos uma ilha flutuante que se mexe e aloja famílias inteiras de índios.

hoje a noite iremos de ónibus a cusco e passaremos uma semana. vou carregar uma selecao dos nossos 4 cds de fotos quando voltaremos pro rio.

foz de iguacu and san pedro de atacama

we skipped paraguay cos i didnt have a visa and the border smelled like burnt rubber. not the good kind. we spent 3 days without a shower to get to san pedro de atacama, chile. maybe from here we´ll take a van to uyuni, bolivia, through the volcanoes and lagoons and salt lakes geysers etc. its lovely here. touristy as all hell. look it up cos it has a great website. cant send pics due to shitty internet but we have some marveous pics.

meu portugues vai ficar tudo misturado com espanhol pois temos que falar com os chilenos a toda hora. deixamos de ir pra paraguay pois eu nao podia entrar sem visto, e cheirava borracha queimada na fronteira. nojento - entao pegamos 3 dias de onibus pelo argentina ate san pedro de atacama ... sem tomar banho!!! aqui e lindo, cheio de volcano, lagos de sal, ruinas. talvez amanha ou depois iremos de van (chique!) pra uyuni, na bolivia, e dai pra titicaca e cusco. nao consigo enviar fotos pois o internet daqui e horrivel.

quinta-feira, maio 24, 2007

Itinerary

Foz do Iguaçu BR/Ciudad del Este PY/Puerto Iguazu AR
See: cataratas, ponte da amizade, três fronteiras – buy memory card
Sleep: Paudimar Albergue Rua Caibi, 201– Remanso Grande Telefone/Fax: 3529-6061 - Site: www.paudimar.com.br - E-mail: info@paudimar.com.br Apto: 39 / Suíte: 09 / Leitos: 153
Paudimar Falls Albergue Rua Antônio Raposo, 820 – Centro – CEP: 85.851-090 - Telefone: 3574-5503 / Fax: 3028-5503 - Site: www.paudimarfalls.com.br - E-mail: info@paudimarfalls.com.br - Apto: 07 / Suíte: 02 / Leitos: 45 R$ 21.00/person
Hostel El Güembé. El Urú 120, Puerto Iguazú. 03757-421035. info@elguembe.com.ar. Small, friendly and relaxed hostel, offering both shared and private rooms. tranquil green part of town, only 5 min. from the arg. bus terminal. (starting at US$6/night)

Bus Cid. Del Este – Assunção (PAR): 330-km /five hours /G50,000. ($10.4us)
N. S. Assunção (45) 3522-2060
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Paraguay: 1R = G2.500,00 ........ 1USD = G5.040,00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Asunción, PY
See: calle palma (historic downtown), palacio de lopez (presdiental
palace), panteon de los heroes, iglesa la encarnacion, congresso nacional (mirrored exterior reflects slum)
Residencial Ambassador @ Montevideo 110, US$5/night
Eat: chipa (anise bread), carne asada, sopa paraguaya (cornbread)
Corrientes/ see ponte belgrano
Resistencia- Hotel Luxor a cheap hotel (23 pesos w/out breakfast) a few blocks from the plaza.
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San Salvador de Jujuy 1R = 1.59 pesos 1USD = 3.08 pesos
See: Quebrada de Humahuaca canyon
colonial city center: Cabildo and the cathedral
Sleep: Yok Wahi Hostel La Madrid 168 Tel: 422-9608 ($32 private room)
Casa de Barro, Otero 294 Tel: 422-9578
Cerro Azul, Cnel. Pastor s/n - Yala Tel: 492-2408
Vista del Parque, Dr Sabin 1103 B° Ciudad de Nieva Tel: 424-3070
Club Hostel, San Martin 155 Tel. 0388-423-7565
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San Pedro de Atacama 1R = 271 chilean pesos 1 USD = 525.5 cp
See: Salar de Atacama, Valle de la luna, Lagunas Altiplano, El Tatio (geyser)
Sleep: Hostale Florida Tocopilla 406, (56-55) 851021, desde $10.000 (USD 20) por hab. doble
Buses: salón-cama means 25 seats on a bus, semi-cama (ejecutivo) means 34 seats on a bus, and pullman means 44 seats on a bus.
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Calama, CL - train , take food + water!!
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Uyuni, BO 1R = 4.3bolivianos 1USD = 8.3 bo
12-15 hrs from la paz by bus, take bus to potosi, (30 bs) 6-7 hrs, then 3-4 more (20bs) to sucre (or 2.5hrs by taxi, 30bs)
world's largest salt flat: salar de uyuni, amazing. nothing to do in city. NO atms.
Hostal Sajama, Potosí 35, 693-3099. Cheap place with basic clean
rooms. Single with shared / private bathroom Bs.25 / Bs.40.
Hotel Avenida, Ferroviaria 11, 693-2078, clean and inexpensive in the town center, near tour operators. U$S 2-3, with bath U$S 5-6.
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Sucre, BO
historic downtown, surrounding villages, 2 hr tour of dino footprints (Cal Orkco), 30bs (the dino truck, corner of pl. 25 de mayo, 930am, 12noon, 2.30pm). famous tapestries.
Backbackers Sucre Hostel (also Hostal Cruz de Popayan), Calle Loa 881 esq Colón, located in a 17th century colonial house. It has all the services travellers want: laundry service, kitchen use, bookswap, half an hour free internet a day and breakfast included in the price.
Dormbed US$3.50 / Single US$4.50 / Double US$4.
Hostal Austria (opposite the busterminal), is a good and comfortable place if you're looking for something close to the busterminal. Single with shared bathroom Bs.35 / with private bathroom Bs60.
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Oruro, BO 3-4 hrs bus ride from la paz, bs15
mining town ... prehistoric sites 1 hr from city
Hotel Bernal, Av. Brasil 701 (next to the busterminal), +591 2
5279468. Cheap option if you're spending the night to grab a bus the next morning. The clean rooms have cable tv.
Alojamiento Rosen, 21 de Enero No. 240 (right across the street from the main entrance to the bus station), +591 2 5277833. Very basic, shared bath, no shower. Twins for Bs. 30.
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La Paz, BO
street markets, calle jaen, cocoa museum,
10 km from city! valle de la luna
la paz > yungas = world's most dangerous road
andean folk music: Marka Tambo/ Calle Jaen 710
restaurant: Utama, top floor of Plaza Hotel, Av. 16 de Julio 1789
(Prado). (typical, famous, cheap)
Hostal Austria, Calle Yanacocha 531, 235-1140. Very popular with backpackers , offering warm water, friendly staff and a central location. Singles Bs35, shared room Bs25.
El Solario, Calle Murillo 776. Another backpacker joint. Warm water, shared bathrooms, laundry service and OK staff. Singles Bs35, dormitory Bs25.
Loki Backpackers Hostel, Calle Loayza 420. Brand new hostel by the bona fide backpacking boys who brought you Loki Cusco and Loki Lima. Loki La Paz is set in the beautifully restored 100 year old hotel Viena and boasts the world´s highest Irish Bar. Services include real
duvets, comfortable beds, real hot showers, free breakfast, evening meals, free internet and Wifi, Tv room with DVDs and satelite ( for sports fans ). Prices start at 4US (32Bs) for a dorm.
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Lago Titicaca: traditional Taquile and floating Uros islands
Copacabana, BO
16bs, 3.5 hrs from la paz (have to take 1.50bs ferry then continue ride)
see cathedral, eat trucha, (trout from the lake), boat ride to Isla del Sol
Hospedaje Aroma, Jáuregui & Destacamento. Basic but seriously cheap. Try to get a room on the top floor, the views there are great. Price Bs.10.
Hostal Sonia, a 5-10 min walk from the main tourist drag. Cheap, but the terrible shower had us changing accomodations after one night. No hot water, and the shower was located in our tiny bathroom almost overtop of the sink. Trucks and buses cruise by at all hours, always
honking to make the turn around the hostel. Bs.50 for a room with double bed and private bathroom.
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Puno, PE 1R = 1.65 nuevo sol 1USD = 3.2ns
3.5 hrs from copacabana, 8 hrs to cuzco
go to Taquile and Uros islands, Sillustani Burial Towers
Hostal Los Uros, Theodóro Valcárcel N8 135, 051-352141. Clean and decent hotel close to the center. Popular with foreigners. A single with shared bathroom cost 20 soles. Ask for a discount in low-season.
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- Cusco: Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo e Pisác
>Boleto turistico
A boleto turistico is required for access to some of the sights in and
around Cuzco. It can be bought at the Oficina Ejecutiva del Comité
(OFEC), Av Sol 103, Cuzco, ph: 227 037.
There are three different kind of tickets:
* A full ticket (valid for ten days and for all sites), 70 soles;
* A student ticket (ISIC sudentcard required as proof), 35 Soles;
* A partial ticket, (only valid for one day and a limited number
of sites) 40 Soles.
The ticket gives access to the following sites in Cuzco: Santa
Cataline Monastry, Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo, Museo Historico Regional, Museo del Sitio del Qoricancha, Museo de Arte Popular, Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo Danzas Folklórico and Monumento Pachacuteq. And around Cuzco: Sacsayhuamán, Qénqo, Pukapukara, Tambomachay, Chinchero and the ruins of Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Tipón and Pikillacta.
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Cusco
see: Plaza de armas, nearby San Bias area full of hostels.
Food/drink: Inca Kola & Chicha Morada, lomo saltado, aji de gallina,
papa rellena, sopa de zapallo, Mama Amerika/Afrika clubs and restaurants
Hospedaje Estrellita, Avenida Tullumayo 445, Cuzco. Shared double rooms surround a large concrete courtyard. There is a kitchen with a sociable commonroom with cable TV. A night cost 12 soles and includes a small breakfast. It's popular with gringos.
LOKI Backpackers Hostel, Cuesta Santa Ana #601, Centro Historico, Cuzco, ph: +51 (0) 84 243705 (email:[2]) [3]A new hostel set up by 4 backpackers in a 450 year old Peruvian national monument. Dorms from $6. Excellent evening menus served for ~$3, busy bar on weekend evenings, generally noisy place to stay, but loads of fun. Hot water with pressure in generally shared showers. If you like European-style hostels and want to meet young, hip travelers this is the place to be. Highly recommended. Note that it is far enough from Plaza de Armas
(and uphill) that you will want to take a taxi for 2 or 3 soles. The taxi driver may not know it by name, so give them the address. Make sure they drive down Cuesta Santa Ana rather than trying to drop you off at the top or the bottom of the hill, as it is a bit of a hike with your bags.
Casa Arco Iris , Calle Arco Iris 535, Barrio San Cristobal, Cuzco, ph: +51 (0) 84 247526. Set in a centuries old building, the friendly owners have only being running Casa Arco Iris since early 2006, so it is still a bit empty, making it very calm and quiet. Rooms from $4.
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Machu Picchu
get there by train for US$40, 4 hrs. (on the way back, get off at poroy and connect to cuzco.) entrance fee 119 soles. buy tickets in cuzco. can spend night in Aguas Calientes (but it's expensive). cheaper option: Sta Maria or Sta Theresa villages. get bus (or hike 8km) from AC. bring food and water. ignore instructions not to. best before 10am.
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Ollantaytambo
take bus from cuzco to Urubamba, then to here. on the way to aguas calientes.
see ruins, Look for houses with red plastic bags hanging outside on
posts. These houses are where locals go to drink Chicha, a local brew made out of corn.
El Albergue Ollantaytambo - A nice place with warm showers. The gringa proprietor, Wendy Weeks, has been living in Peru for 30 years.
Affordable prices, excellent food, English spoken.
Pakaritampu, just up the road from the railway station. Beautiful
garden. Restaurant and bar.
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Pisác
From Cuzco there are frequent buses leaving at Av. Tullumayo 207 (2 soles). 35 km away.
see inca ruins. (walk or take taxi, 10s). eat with the locals.
VOLTA Cuzco- Puno- La Paz
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Cochabamba
Flag down any beat-up looking Japanese compact car on the street, you can be sure it's a taxi. A fare within town should be Bs 5-6.
See: Cristo de la Concordia, La Cancha market (huge),
Eat: Sucremanta, 2 locations: Plaza 14 de Septiembre, and on the Prado. Dishes from Sucre, based on "grandmother's recipes". The Plaza branch, with live piano music on Sundays, is a great place for brunch. Try the hearty menudito (spicy stew). Drink chicha, fermented corn base beverage. The best is said to be from here.
Sleep: Hotel Los Angeles, Ave. Esteban Arze 345, (between Jordán and Sucre), 450-0800. Decent budget hotel in a good location. It competes with the Hotel Las Vegas across the street for the cheesiest norteamericano decor.
You can find many hotels and hostales close to the bus terminal, which is not too far from the center. Hostal Kanata, Ayacucho 941, is very close, has clean doubles for 60 Bs (20 Bs more for a TV), though a not too friendly staff.
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Sta. Cruz de La Sierra, Bolivia (Trem da Morte) - Corumba (or plane to sampa)
Hotel Italia, Rene Moreno #167, Casilla 2535 - find cheaper place or couchsurf.

quinta-feira, maio 17, 2007

floripa 2

wednesday the weather shifted, allowing a venture on the superfab trails. i was so happy i started singing 50 cent.


engravings of the sambaqui indians


the resort's imitation of the island's indian rock carvings

trilha floripa

florianopolis



we arrived on sunday afternoon and monday i spent in bed with cramps reading anna karenina and waiting for denis' sprinting visits between toxicology talks. tuesday i bought aspirin and got lucky: the woman we'd shared the airport transport with was going to see the south of the island. i went along for the ride, having none-too-elegantly invited myself but having thereafter a splendid time. she and i took the bus downtown (floripa is an island-city, each neighborhood a beach). we visited the cathedral, the park, the indoor market (selling seafood and shoes - a search for souvenirs showed but one shop). we bought things. then we took a taxi to the south of the island, see photos below. it was raining and gusting and generally horrendous vacation weather, but the company was excellent.




segunda-feira, abril 30, 2007

April 29th, 2006

yesterday we completed 1 year of marriage.

Xtof and Michelle's visit



Búzios


quarta-feira, março 28, 2007

MY TATTOO!!!!!

scroll down, you idiots.

feathers

minha passista

por favor desculpem todo o inglês, vai mais embaixo que tem foto!

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pictures courtesy of denis

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she's a passista, or a carnaval samba dancer, and she's the fine creation of paulo, who works with his marvelous wife here in recreio. sweetest couple on the planet.

when he first stuck the needle to me i could only feel a small scratching like a sharp pencil. i was delighted with my bravery. for some reason he stopped. i was fine, i insisted. i was covered with sweat, slipping around in the massage chair. he was talking to me and i was replying but he couldn't hear me. i wondered why not. then i started to get fuzzy. denis walked in and put his hand on my other shoulder to comfort me. he had to towel away the sweat first. i was delighted by his presence but infuriatingly could only see little ghost rice krispies floating through the air.

that lasted about five minutes, then i was fine. we started again when i regained color (even my tongue was blanched) and went for an hour, until the outline was finished. took a break for water and candy. we were listening to some lovely blues. i was going strong. then we spent another hour on the major shading, after which i started to weaken. the feathers did me in. i had to pretend there was a kitten on my shoulder sweetly clawing my back (think caligula kleg, if you had the pleasure of making its acquaintance).

it took 3 and a half hours total. next month i go back for more shading.

afterwards denis took me out for beer and a good strong meal. he made me walk home five paces in front of him so he could keep looking at our passista.










drawing in progress


quarta-feira, março 07, 2007

pedra do pontal - recreio

last weekend we hiked the rock down by our house. this is us.

this is on the trail


this is the view from the top

and this is me making ostentatious locomotions. innit?

mercado municipal /sao paulo


denis & his lovely sis luana


samba! melon!!


stocking the larders



fancy new indonesian fashion fruit (bland, pricy)





cute! lil' piggies!




cod (portuguese delish)


sampa's historic "municipal market" - famous for fried cod pies and gigantic bologna sandwiches. denis took me in february, last we were in the city.

quarta-feira, fevereiro 21, 2007

carnaval parades in the sambadrome (sapucai)



Mestre-Sala e Porta-Bandeira (the representatives of each samba school, responsible for carrying the school's flag)


an "ala", or wing of paraders that comes between the floats

detail of a float


Rainhas de Bateria (battery queens - they direct the drummers, and are usually celebrities)


Baianas - the most traditional wing

a float representing South Africa


more Baianas, in homage to african queens


The winning school's first float (Beija-Flor, or hummingbird in portuguese. check out the front part of the car)


details of a float


us in front of Portela's first float (this is the school Denis has been rooting for since he was a wee boy)

pics ('cept this last one) by my hubbykins!